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	<title>Comments for Fruit Forum</title>
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	<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com</link>
	<description>A webspace for fruit enthusiasts</description>
	<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jul 2008 20:03:16 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on Olive Trees Fruiting in England by Charles Quest-Ritson</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/07/03/olive-trees-fruiting-in-england/#comment-8481</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Quest-Ritson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2008 18:03:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=260#comment-8481</guid>
		<description>There is a pretty plantation of olives at the Ventnor Botanic Garden, but they have not yet fruited because the cultivar is 'Leccino', a Tuscan olive that is autosterile. 'Leccino' is widely regarded as one of the hardiest cultivars under Italian conditions. The garden director told me 18 months ago that he was aware of the problem and would seek out a suitable pollinator, so there may be olives in that garden shortly. Pollen is carried on the wind.

In my opinion, it is highly unlikely that any cultivar will fruit regularly under UK conditions. I saw the specimen in the Chelsea Physic Garden when it was in fruit in 2006, and was surprised to see such a respectable crop. I do not know its cultivar name.

I have a database of about 1000 cultivars, assembled when writing my book 'Olive Oil' (Dorling Kindersley, 2006). The cultivar which produces ripe olives in the shortest number of days (and thus a possible choice for UK conditions) is 'Frantoio', also from Tuscany, but there are parts of Italy where it does not ripen before the frosts destroy the immature fruits. I calculate that we would need a rise in average summer temperatures of 6 degrees Celsius before olive-growing in UK became a commercial proposition.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>There is a pretty plantation of olives at the Ventnor Botanic Garden, but they have not yet fruited because the cultivar is &#8216;Leccino&#8217;, a Tuscan olive that is autosterile. &#8216;Leccino&#8217; is widely regarded as one of the hardiest cultivars under Italian conditions. The garden director told me 18 months ago that he was aware of the problem and would seek out a suitable pollinator, so there may be olives in that garden shortly. Pollen is carried on the wind.</p>
<p>In my opinion, it is highly unlikely that any cultivar will fruit regularly under UK conditions. I saw the specimen in the Chelsea Physic Garden when it was in fruit in 2006, and was surprised to see such a respectable crop. I do not know its cultivar name.</p>
<p>I have a database of about 1000 cultivars, assembled when writing my book &#8216;Olive Oil&#8217; (Dorling Kindersley, 2006). The cultivar which produces ripe olives in the shortest number of days (and thus a possible choice for UK conditions) is &#8216;Frantoio&#8217;, also from Tuscany, but there are parts of Italy where it does not ripen before the frosts destroy the immature fruits. I calculate that we would need a rise in average summer temperatures of 6 degrees Celsius before olive-growing in UK became a commercial proposition.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Summer Pruning of Plums: advice please? by Brian Self</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/06/10/summer-pruning-of-plums-advice-please/#comment-8360</link>
		<dc:creator>Brian Self</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jul 2008 21:19:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=255#comment-8360</guid>
		<description>The original recommendation was to prune in late July, when shoots have stopped growing, reducing branch leaders to 8 in and side shoots to 8 in. The leader, the top shoot of the pyramid is left unpruned and tied to a stake and any strong competing upright shoot should be removed.  Some people are very successful with modifications on this basic theme.   Variations in rainfall, growth and fruit set may upset the 'rule of thumb practice'.   In some years growth may continue in late July especially in a wet summer.   If summer pruning is delayed too much, then the vigour of the tree is not curtailed and the compact tree shape will be lost.   In the past trees on St Julian A rootstock were fairly vigorous, but now many  have experience with trees on the dwarf rootstock Pixy and the vigour problems and complications with pruning are less.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The original recommendation was to prune in late July, when shoots have stopped growing, reducing branch leaders to 8 in and side shoots to 8 in. The leader, the top shoot of the pyramid is left unpruned and tied to a stake and any strong competing upright shoot should be removed.  Some people are very successful with modifications on this basic theme.   Variations in rainfall, growth and fruit set may upset the &#8216;rule of thumb practice&#8217;.   In some years growth may continue in late July especially in a wet summer.   If summer pruning is delayed too much, then the vigour of the tree is not curtailed and the compact tree shape will be lost.   In the past trees on St Julian A rootstock were fairly vigorous, but now many  have experience with trees on the dwarf rootstock Pixy and the vigour problems and complications with pruning are less.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Black Aphid on Apple - how can this be? by Derek Rye</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/07/08/black-aphids-on-apple-how-can-this-be/#comment-8293</link>
		<dc:creator>Derek Rye</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 20:15:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=263#comment-8293</guid>
		<description>Are you familiar with the rosy apple aphid which is blue/black in the early part of the year?  If not then I think you have it.  I find that it is very common on some varieties, usually the sweeter ones.  When I had Kidd's Orange Red in my garden it suffered very badly and was always nearly impossible to control.  It also attacked Merton Beauty badly.  Interestingly it did not seem able to make any impact on James Grieve on which only a few single aphids could occasionally be seen.

Usually the attacked leaves curl softly around the massed aphids making them invisible initially, shortly after blossom time, and best detected by looking for the presence of ants on the branches heading for the shoot tips.  The early appearance of rosy apple aphid is low down under the branches rather than on the tops as with the green aphids.



This year rosy apple aphid is only present on one of my varieties which is not cropping.  I usually have to battle with it to limit the number of shrunken apples which are always found near the attacked leaves later in the year.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you familiar with the rosy apple aphid which is blue/black in the early part of the year?  If not then I think you have it.  I find that it is very common on some varieties, usually the sweeter ones.  When I had Kidd&#8217;s Orange Red in my garden it suffered very badly and was always nearly impossible to control.  It also attacked Merton Beauty badly.  Interestingly it did not seem able to make any impact on James Grieve on which only a few single aphids could occasionally be seen.</p>
<p>Usually the attacked leaves curl softly around the massed aphids making them invisible initially, shortly after blossom time, and best detected by looking for the presence of ants on the branches heading for the shoot tips.  The early appearance of rosy apple aphid is low down under the branches rather than on the tops as with the green aphids.</p>
<p>This year rosy apple aphid is only present on one of my varieties which is not cropping.  I usually have to battle with it to limit the number of shrunken apples which are always found near the attacked leaves later in the year.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Guidance for the Amateur is Needed on Rootstocks and Training by Adrian Baggaley</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/06/04/guidance-for-the-amateur-is-needed-on-rootstocks-and-training/#comment-8281</link>
		<dc:creator>Adrian Baggaley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 07:50:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=253#comment-8281</guid>
		<description>Several years ago I built a ‘Gage Wall’ - around eight feet high by about thirty feet long, facing due south. Against the ‘wall’ I planted an Early Transparent Gage and a Cambridge Gage; these were trained as fans. In the early years the limited amount of fruit was exquisite, but as the fans developed the fruit had less and less flavour. What puzzled me was why? What was I doing wrong? It took several years and a visit to Brogdale to solve the problem. 

The Plum Collection at Brogdale is magnificent and a plum gourmet’s Paradise - hundreds of varieties, each with its own individual taste, which varies from year to year, depending on the season. 

One particular Summer Friends Day the tasting’s were definitely not up to scratch. The plums were mealy and bland. There had not been any rain in Kent for weeks. During a conversation with Derek Rye at the following Autumn Friends Day he told me that two weeks later the plums were excellent. The reason being that it had rained. 

Rain is a prerequisite for a flavour-some plum and excessive rain does not necessarily dampen its flavour; whereas with apple and particularly pears it does. The downside is that excessive rain at ripening time cracks plums. This is why in a wet season a bumper crop is required to spread the moisture uptake. Last year was such a year. Although lots of fruit cracked and went rotten, provided I picked the infected fruit before it infected its neighbour, I still had a superb plum crop. In my orchard cordon plums rarely had a bumper crop as they cracked and went rotten in rainy Nottinghamshire. 

Ian does not favour Jubelium, but with me it  is an excellent plum - large, free stone, sweet and juicy, about ten days earlier than Victoria but otherwise similar. I planted mine as a maiden whip, trained it as a fan and it succeeded around three years later. The fruits will hang for ages; in fact it hangs on for so long I tire of it. Try it in another form and invest in moth pheromone traps, I suggest. 

On Reeve’s Seedling we agree. This is my favourite plum - large, round, freestone, and sweet. A connoisseur’s fruit that is a descendant of the excellent Count Althann’s gage. Unfortunately it is a martyr to bacterial canker on my stiff clay and the days of my superb tree may be numbered. My problem is not plum moth but plum saw fly and as of yet there are no pheromone traps for the amateur grower.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Several years ago I built a ‘Gage Wall’ - around eight feet high by about thirty feet long, facing due south. Against the ‘wall’ I planted an Early Transparent Gage and a Cambridge Gage; these were trained as fans. In the early years the limited amount of fruit was exquisite, but as the fans developed the fruit had less and less flavour. What puzzled me was why? What was I doing wrong? It took several years and a visit to Brogdale to solve the problem. </p>
<p>The Plum Collection at Brogdale is magnificent and a plum gourmet’s Paradise - hundreds of varieties, each with its own individual taste, which varies from year to year, depending on the season. </p>
<p>One particular Summer Friends Day the tasting’s were definitely not up to scratch. The plums were mealy and bland. There had not been any rain in Kent for weeks. During a conversation with Derek Rye at the following Autumn Friends Day he told me that two weeks later the plums were excellent. The reason being that it had rained. </p>
<p>Rain is a prerequisite for a flavour-some plum and excessive rain does not necessarily dampen its flavour; whereas with apple and particularly pears it does. The downside is that excessive rain at ripening time cracks plums. This is why in a wet season a bumper crop is required to spread the moisture uptake. Last year was such a year. Although lots of fruit cracked and went rotten, provided I picked the infected fruit before it infected its neighbour, I still had a superb plum crop. In my orchard cordon plums rarely had a bumper crop as they cracked and went rotten in rainy Nottinghamshire. </p>
<p>Ian does not favour Jubelium, but with me it  is an excellent plum - large, free stone, sweet and juicy, about ten days earlier than Victoria but otherwise similar. I planted mine as a maiden whip, trained it as a fan and it succeeded around three years later. The fruits will hang for ages; in fact it hangs on for so long I tire of it. Try it in another form and invest in moth pheromone traps, I suggest. </p>
<p>On Reeve’s Seedling we agree. This is my favourite plum - large, round, freestone, and sweet. A connoisseur’s fruit that is a descendant of the excellent Count Althann’s gage. Unfortunately it is a martyr to bacterial canker on my stiff clay and the days of my superb tree may be numbered. My problem is not plum moth but plum saw fly and as of yet there are no pheromone traps for the amateur grower.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Effects of a Cold Wet Spring on the Fruit Crop by Kathryn Jacobi</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/06/23/effects-of-a-cold-wet-spring-on-the-fruit-crop/#comment-8263</link>
		<dc:creator>Kathryn Jacobi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 21:37:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=259#comment-8263</guid>
		<description>Phew!  Thought it was just us having a bad year!  Only put our orchard in last year so thought we had done something wrong!  Our apples and pears are poor, hardly any on some trees, none on others.  Our Victoria plums seem to be doing alright considering they are only two or three years old.

Strawberries were good this year.  Blackcurrants are a no show. Oh well, there's always next year!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Phew!  Thought it was just us having a bad year!  Only put our orchard in last year so thought we had done something wrong!  Our apples and pears are poor, hardly any on some trees, none on others.  Our Victoria plums seem to be doing alright considering they are only two or three years old.</p>
<p>Strawberries were good this year.  Blackcurrants are a no show. Oh well, there&#8217;s always next year!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Jostaberry - is it worth growing? by Jay Bratton</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2007/05/09/jostaberry/#comment-8237</link>
		<dc:creator>Jay Bratton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 14:01:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2007/05/09/jostaberry/#comment-8237</guid>
		<description>I have just picked three pounds from the big jostaberry bush on my allotment - there are at least five pounds more to come: I net it, after the disappointment of the first year. 

Could someone tell me about the much-praised jam, please. What fruit/sugar/water quantities should I use? And is it a pectin-rich fruit, or do I need to use the sugar with pectin?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have just picked three pounds from the big jostaberry bush on my allotment - there are at least five pounds more to come: I net it, after the disappointment of the first year. </p>
<p>Could someone tell me about the much-praised jam, please. What fruit/sugar/water quantities should I use? And is it a pectin-rich fruit, or do I need to use the sugar with pectin?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Olive Trees Fruiting in England by Jeff Bull</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/07/03/olive-trees-fruiting-in-england/#comment-8227</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff Bull</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jul 2008 23:13:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=260#comment-8227</guid>
		<description>Royal Botanic Gardens Kew have planted several semi-mature specimens; imported from Italy(?), I seem to recall from their second series of Friday evening TV programmes about trees. They are dotted around the newish Mediterranean Garden, which I saw only two weeks ago, and are in good health. One or more much maturer specimens are present, too, and bear plentiful new-season shoots from the stubs of the pruned-back framework.

This area is clearly marked, by name, on the map within the entry leaflet; viz. c200m to the right (ie North) of the Temperate House.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Royal Botanic Gardens Kew have planted several semi-mature specimens; imported from Italy(?), I seem to recall from their second series of Friday evening TV programmes about trees. They are dotted around the newish Mediterranean Garden, which I saw only two weeks ago, and are in good health. One or more much maturer specimens are present, too, and bear plentiful new-season shoots from the stubs of the pruned-back framework.</p>
<p>This area is clearly marked, by name, on the map within the entry leaflet; viz. c200m to the right (ie North) of the Temperate House.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Summer Pruning of Plums: advice please? by Adrian Baggaley</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/06/10/summer-pruning-of-plums-advice-please/#comment-8206</link>
		<dc:creator>Adrian Baggaley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2008 12:28:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=255#comment-8206</guid>
		<description>I lost patience with my cordon plums after around eight to ten years of poor crops, cracking and lack of flavour. 

Out of sixteen varieties of plum, gage and damson grown as oblique and upright cordons on St Julian A, I could only recommend about three and these are Giant Prune, Belgian Purple and Bradley’s King damson. As cordons only Belgian Purple was dessert quality.

The mode of restricting growth was to nip new growth back to six leaves when the new growth had reached about a foot long, and nipping any new growth from these to one leaf. 

After cropping, summer prune back to three buds or three leaves if the buds in the leaf axils are not prominent. I found that the three buds could well be only blossom buds and no extensions or side growth is possible. The shoot will die the following year after blossoming or fruiting. 

My favoured system is to modify cordons by not summer pruning and to pull down the new extension growth - good crops will assist this - to form a weeping tree. An increase in flavour and cropping should be noted the following year, but it does require more room.

Once I have the ‘ribs’ on each arm of the fan all growths from then on are cut back to six to nine inches; any frontal or rear growth is rubbed out. I find this gives me a compact fan suitable for a six foot fence panel. When you get to the top you can cut back to the ribs and start again. Pruning is at my convenience and normally in late winter. I tie in the remaining growth at the same time and seal the cuts to prevent silver leaf. This task could be done soon after fruiting if you wish. Any rampant new growth could be tipped or nipped during the summer, only moderate growth is required.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I lost patience with my cordon plums after around eight to ten years of poor crops, cracking and lack of flavour. </p>
<p>Out of sixteen varieties of plum, gage and damson grown as oblique and upright cordons on St Julian A, I could only recommend about three and these are Giant Prune, Belgian Purple and Bradley’s King damson. As cordons only Belgian Purple was dessert quality.</p>
<p>The mode of restricting growth was to nip new growth back to six leaves when the new growth had reached about a foot long, and nipping any new growth from these to one leaf. </p>
<p>After cropping, summer prune back to three buds or three leaves if the buds in the leaf axils are not prominent. I found that the three buds could well be only blossom buds and no extensions or side growth is possible. The shoot will die the following year after blossoming or fruiting. </p>
<p>My favoured system is to modify cordons by not summer pruning and to pull down the new extension growth - good crops will assist this - to form a weeping tree. An increase in flavour and cropping should be noted the following year, but it does require more room.</p>
<p>Once I have the ‘ribs’ on each arm of the fan all growths from then on are cut back to six to nine inches; any frontal or rear growth is rubbed out. I find this gives me a compact fan suitable for a six foot fence panel. When you get to the top you can cut back to the ribs and start again. Pruning is at my convenience and normally in late winter. I tie in the remaining growth at the same time and seal the cuts to prevent silver leaf. This task could be done soon after fruiting if you wish. Any rampant new growth could be tipped or nipped during the summer, only moderate growth is required.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Effects of a Cold Wet Spring on the Fruit Crop by Jean-Pierre Billen</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/06/23/effects-of-a-cold-wet-spring-on-the-fruit-crop/#comment-8184</link>
		<dc:creator>Jean-Pierre Billen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:53:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=259#comment-8184</guid>
		<description>The strange wet and light frosty weather this spring took its toll here too in the province of Limburg, north east Belgium. 

Plum and pear are rare fruits this year. The fruit set on plum is a complete disaster. All nine varieties grown as half standard shave no fruit, which is a great pity, for we will miss our plum cakes. The only exception is Mirabelle de Nancy which has enough fruit to fill some cups for the coming winter.

Pear is slightly better. Durondeau carries a promising crop, but good croppers, such as Beurré Hardy, Beau Présent have very little fruit and Comtesse de Paris, Louise Bonne of Jersey none at all. Luckily Saint Rémy (Bellisme d'Hiver) has a small crop. This late keeping kitchen variety will have to see us through the coming winter. It is an excellent cooking pear. Some people say the best you can grow over here. Another local cooker Winterrietpeer has no fruit on at all. 

Quinces are very shy bearers too this year, but with five full grown trees I will probably have enough to make sufficient jam to get through to the next season. The apple shaped quince does remarkably better then the pear shape quince.

There are promising crops  in other fruits. My fig has become a beautiful bush with elegant leaves and at the moment full of fruit. This year the size is large and they  look better than in previous years. Over the years I have found a couple of simple but splendid recipes for figs; I made an excellent jam last year.

The crop on apple is a mixed story. Some varieties have plenty of fruit, but the local beauty, Reinette Etoilée, has let me down this year. I noticed that there are more trees without fruit  in my cordon collection than in other years, but most of the standard apple trees look very promising. 

Small fruit is also doing well. There are good crops of gooseberries and red currants.

Cherries are a success this year. The local Bigareau Napoleon and Hedelfinger Riesenkirchen all have lots of cherries. With four twenty year old standard trees there are enough cherries for the family, friends and the birds. We offer the Merton Premier cherries to the birds; these early ones, which lack flavour, are left on the tree for them. This may be the reason why the birds are not eating every cherry that ripens afterwards.

The late fruit setting in the vines did not cause a problem. All varieties - Regent, Orion, Wurzer, Reichensteiner, Glorie van Boscoop, Muller Thurgau - look just fine. The combination of very wet weather and high temperatures brought mildew, which is very difficult to cure at the moment.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The strange wet and light frosty weather this spring took its toll here too in the province of Limburg, north east Belgium. </p>
<p>Plum and pear are rare fruits this year. The fruit set on plum is a complete disaster. All nine varieties grown as half standard shave no fruit, which is a great pity, for we will miss our plum cakes. The only exception is Mirabelle de Nancy which has enough fruit to fill some cups for the coming winter.</p>
<p>Pear is slightly better. Durondeau carries a promising crop, but good croppers, such as Beurré Hardy, Beau Présent have very little fruit and Comtesse de Paris, Louise Bonne of Jersey none at all. Luckily Saint Rémy (Bellisme d&#8217;Hiver) has a small crop. This late keeping kitchen variety will have to see us through the coming winter. It is an excellent cooking pear. Some people say the best you can grow over here. Another local cooker Winterrietpeer has no fruit on at all. </p>
<p>Quinces are very shy bearers too this year, but with five full grown trees I will probably have enough to make sufficient jam to get through to the next season. The apple shaped quince does remarkably better then the pear shape quince.</p>
<p>There are promising crops  in other fruits. My fig has become a beautiful bush with elegant leaves and at the moment full of fruit. This year the size is large and they  look better than in previous years. Over the years I have found a couple of simple but splendid recipes for figs; I made an excellent jam last year.</p>
<p>The crop on apple is a mixed story. Some varieties have plenty of fruit, but the local beauty, Reinette Etoilée, has let me down this year. I noticed that there are more trees without fruit  in my cordon collection than in other years, but most of the standard apple trees look very promising. </p>
<p>Small fruit is also doing well. There are good crops of gooseberries and red currants.</p>
<p>Cherries are a success this year. The local Bigareau Napoleon and Hedelfinger Riesenkirchen all have lots of cherries. With four twenty year old standard trees there are enough cherries for the family, friends and the birds. We offer the Merton Premier cherries to the birds; these early ones, which lack flavour, are left on the tree for them. This may be the reason why the birds are not eating every cherry that ripens afterwards.</p>
<p>The late fruit setting in the vines did not cause a problem. All varieties - Regent, Orion, Wurzer, Reichensteiner, Glorie van Boscoop, Muller Thurgau - look just fine. The combination of very wet weather and high temperatures brought mildew, which is very difficult to cure at the moment.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Upwardly Mobile Strawberry by Jim Streeton</title>
		<link>http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/2008/05/13/upwardly-mobile-strawberry/#comment-8183</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Streeton</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:38:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://fruitforum.wordpress.com/?p=251#comment-8183</guid>
		<description>I think I must resign myself to the likelihood that it is a raspberry, though how the seed got in is difficult to imagine.  I do not now remember where the original fruit came from, but it may have been Leicester Market. If so, I suppose, there would have been opportunity for contamination there.

The plant is continuing to grow in exactly the same manner and is now about 3ft 6in.  There is no sign of blossom, so I imagine that will not now come till next year.  When it does put in an appearance I shall watch it with the greatest interest - at least until - as I now fully expect - it turns out to be a perfectly ordinary raspberry.  But, in the meantime, I can't help harbouring a tiny hope for something else. If something strange appears this Blog will be the first to know!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think I must resign myself to the likelihood that it is a raspberry, though how the seed got in is difficult to imagine.  I do not now remember where the original fruit came from, but it may have been Leicester Market. If so, I suppose, there would have been opportunity for contamination there.</p>
<p>The plant is continuing to grow in exactly the same manner and is now about 3ft 6in.  There is no sign of blossom, so I imagine that will not now come till next year.  When it does put in an appearance I shall watch it with the greatest interest - at least until - as I now fully expect - it turns out to be a perfectly ordinary raspberry.  But, in the meantime, I can&#8217;t help harbouring a tiny hope for something else. If something strange appears this Blog will be the first to know!</p>
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